The Sierra’s Towns and Villages

Jabugo and its neighbours

Jabugo – ‘our’ village contains the large buildings that are the ham processing factories. The most elegant and prestigious of these is that of Cinco Jotas which offers tours of the factory and a visit to the countryside where the agricultural system known as ‘dehesa’ is explained. These tours include ham and sherry tasting. A smaller family-owned business which produces hams of equal quality is that of Jamones Eiriz in Corteconcepción.

The village is an old one centred around the Plaza del Jamón, with an impressive church whose tower is of course occupied by the ubiquitous White Stork nest. There are ham shops and friendly bars and one or two good restaurants.

Jabugo’s main festival is the Feria de San Miguel which is celebrated over 3 days around the 22-26 September.

Short walks or a quick drive will take you to Jabugo’s satellite villages of El Repilado, with its considerable ham factories, railway station and an excellent if simple fish restaurant, Los Romeros and El Quejigo.

Galaroza

A large old village below Jabugo with a number of churches and the Fuente de Los Doce Caños (the spring of 12 spouts). Painted rush-matted chairs and tables are a speciality – the two children’s high chairs (tronas) in the “Kitchen” were bought in Galaroza. The village’s annual festival is the Feria del Carmen which lasts for a few days at the end of July.

Cañaveral de León

A very old village on the border with Extremadura it has a unique and very large swimming pool in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, La Laguna. It is fed from a local spring, the arabic Fuente Redonda, itself of historical importance. It also powers the local olive mill and is used to irrigate the nearby orchards and huertas.

There is an interesting museum, the Ethnological Museum of Olive Oil, which shows how El Viejo Molino might once have worked. Weaving is popular and olive branches are used to weave baskets of all shapes and sizes. And there is a Certamen de Moda Flamenca every July to exhibit the work of local flamenco dress designers.

The Feria de Santa Marina is held between the 17 and 21 July each year.

Castaño del Robledo

This old and very well preserved village, named for the chestnut trees that surround it, is a lovely and shady 3.5km walk from Jabugo.

Almonaster La Real

Almonaster La Real – this pretty village is something of a walk from the Mill. It has a 10th century Mezquita, one of the few surviving examples of a rural Spanish mosque, which was built from a 5th century Visigoth basilica. This picturesque building sits atop a hill with views all around and is well worth a visit. The village has a good restaurant.

Cortegana

This is one of the larger towns in the area and sits on a ridge between two hilltops. It can be seen from afar, and from the west-facing window in the “Kitchen” is particularly lovely at dusk with the sun setting behind it. Cortegana has a 13th century castle that dominates the northern hilltop and is well worth a visit – a 4-day mediaeval festival is held here over the second weekend in August.

The Feria de Cortegana takes place in the first week of September.

Aroche

This hilltop town with a restored 12 th century castle is close to the Portuguese border. The Black Vultures roost nearby. The Picos de Aroche, a granite outcrop, can be visited from here – it involves a 6km walk to the Aroche peak and is good for birdwatching as raptors climb the thermals and wheel overhead.

There is an interesting archaeological museum and an impressive church.

Alájar & La Peña de Arias Montano

This lovely village sits at the foot of the spectacular rocky outcrop that is the Peña de Arias Montano. It was named after Benito Arias Montano, confessor, theologian and adviser to Philip II, for whom it was a place of meditation and a retreat. The King visited in 1576 and meditated in a cave that has become known as the Sillita del Rey. There is a visitors’ centre. It is a peaceful place during the week and the views simply stunning. Mosaics of cobbled stones, llanos, decorate many an entrance to a home. There is a large church, the Iglesia de San Marcos, and good bars and restaurants, one a restored mill!

Linares de la Sierra

Just west of Aracena this pretty village of Moorish origin perches on a hillside. Its main square is unusual in that it is built around the old bull ring and is therefore circular. Mosaics also decorate many entrances to homes in this village and Los Llanos is its nickname.

There are Turkish baths, the Hammam La Molinilla, and an excellent restaurant, Mesón Arrieros.

Three Kings is especially celebrated in Linares on the 5 th January, and the annual fiesta is the 3-day Feria de San Juan around 24 June. The last Saturday in June is the Night of the Poets – poems are read in the Plaza de la Fuente by celebrities and children.

Cortelazor

You cross an old stone bridge to enter this picturesque little 13 th century village. There is a popular annual open air painting competition.

Aracena

And finally to the main town of the Sierra at the very heart of the National Park. Driving into Aracena from the east on the N433 after dark you turn a corner and there before you is the spectacular sight of Aracena Castle lit up with the town and large church below. It’s a sight we never tire of. The 13 th century castle was built on the site of an earlier Moorish castle and incorporates a fortified priory church. The town is also well known for its cave system, known as the Gruta de las Maravillas, which includes over 2km of subterranean passages under the hill on which the castle stands. And of course the town boasts a museum dedicated to ham, El Museo del Jamón de Aracena.

There are a number of hotels in the town, the Spa Hotel Convento de Aracena, a converted convent is the most luxurious of these (see Eating Out for references to its restaurant.) There are restaurants and bars aplenty, a theatre and all the bustle and activity associated with a large town.

The main Feria is in the third week of August which includes an evening parade of ‘big-headed giants’. At the end of August an Ancient Music Festival is held in the castle grounds.